Your Surf Report for Today

Your Surf Report for Today

Back in the 70s I was in my 20s and dwelling in a more-or-less communal household in Mill Valley, California. Among my roomies was a surfer whose name I forget. Yet I’ll always remember his ardor for “tasty waves” and his willingness to ditch all chores and any schedule to head for a favored spot whenever glassy swells began to rear up and break.